Pet Advice

Fleas - These tiny creatures are everywhere all the time!

Grooming - There is a strange creature roaming around out there

Kittens - The kittens are here!

Food - With tins opening, boxes shaking and bones crunching across the nation we know that food rates high on every pet's agenda

Summer Dogs - Summer is nearly here! As you get out the deck chair and cocktails don’t forget your pets when the temperature rises

Surgery - At some stage in your pet's life, usually first time for desexing, you may need to consider their undergoing a surgical procedure

Fleas

FLEAS! These tiny creatures are everywhere all the time! They are sending our pets into a biting, scratching frenzy. Bite, scratch, bite, bite scratch. Powders, injections, bombs, shampoos, tablets, collars, drenches- we know we have to kill them but they are very tough, very clever and breed like...FLEAS!

First, some facts. Once you see an adult flea on your pet there are thousands more eggs, larvae and adults in the environment and in your home. There is simply no such thing as ‘a couple of fleas’. Adult fleas jump onto pets to feed and may quickly jump off again. They suck blood by biting and then pass it through their system and it comes out the other end as black grit or ‘flea dirt’. You can see this and the eggs throughout the coat and bedding. They especially like warm areas like the ears, near the rump and tail and around collars. Flea dirt falls off the dog or cat and into the carpet, bedding and surroundings where it becomes food for the larvae. Eggs can remain dormant for over a year until suitable conditions develop.

Therefore there will always be fleas! Both dogs and cats suffer fleas although dogs tend to have more serious reactions. If one of your pets has fleas then they all do. Flea bites become red and itchy and may develop into flea allergic dermatitis. Fleas also transmit intestinal tape worm, which needs to be treated with a three monthly tablet. Your pet may become anaemic and bite marks are often scratched into nasty sores.

We humans have tried all sorts of methods to kill these little beasts with varied success. Powders, tablets and shampoos kill some adult fleas but they are messy and often fleas just jump off or gather on the face. These products give relief for a day or so but do nothing to eradicate eggs or larvae, so there is an army waiting to jump on. Collars and herbal remedies are also ineffectual.

Injections made some progress and there are tablet programs such as ‘Sentinel’ available. These are suited to permanent indoor pets.

The best products for a flea free life are monthly drop on treatments such as ‘Frontline’, ‘Revolution’ and ‘Advantage’. Designed for dogs and cats of all ages. These are applied to the back of the neck, where tongues cannot reach, and are distributed through the skin. Adult fleas are killed and the ‘dirt’ is infected so the larvae are wiped out as well. Eggs are either neutralised or killed. Beware of supermarket products. They seem cheaper but may only last for two weeks and are not always waterproof. Read the labels carefully as they can be toxic for cats and smaller dogs. Veterinary drop-ons average around $10 per month and some have tick and heartworm protection incorporated.

If used correctly and consistently there are very easy solutions available. When faced with a heavy infestation, or moving to a new house, it is advisable to use a ‘flea bomb’ to get a head start. Fleas are a preventable burden your furry family doesn’t need. We do not have to accept them as part of owning an animal. Often our pets sleep inside, travel in our cars and have close contact with us and our children. Their fleas aren’t invited! Where there is one there are many; and there’s the scratch, scratch, bite bite, scratch, bite, scratch, bite, bite, bite...

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Grooming

There is a strange creature roaming around out there. It smells awful, it has burrs and sticks and things hanging off it and it’s covered in dirt. It may have dreadlocks, parasites, sores, a rash and HUGE claws. It has been seen in cars, backyards and even in houses! It has four legs, a tail... It is...YOUR DOG!! If it is not regularly groomed of course!

All dogs need some level of grooming and hygiene, especially if they live indoors. They all need to be bathed, have their ears cleaned and overgrown nails trimmed. Dog should be washed in an appropriate pet shampoo, their skin has different PH and oil levels and can become dry and irritated with human shampoo or detergents. Be sure to wash the whole dog! Even those tricky underneath bits, between their toes and around their faces. A tissue is ideal or ears, avoid using cotton buds or implements as they can damage ear drums. Rinse thoroughly and dry off with a towel, sponge or chamois. If possible, a blowdry is great.

Short haired dogs moult as much as long haired ones, so a brush is a good idea. for short, single coated breeds, like Staffordshire Bull Terriers, a rubber mitt or brush should keep loose hair under control. Double coated dogs like Labradors and Heelers need a little more effort: a wire bristled slicker brush and undercoat rake works best. A rubber mitt can be used during bathing to work in shampoo and loosen hairs. During the summer when there are chunks of dog hair EVERYWHERE, a professional hydrobath, brush out and blowdry at the groomers is very worthwhile.

Got a long haired dog? Enter the realm of pompoms, leggings, beards, aprons, tassels, featherings and furnishings. Different breeds have different hairstyles and it’s not just poodles. Before you get a long haired dog be aware that grooming is an essential part of their welfare. Some breeds such as the Maltese are bred with hair that grows rather too long. For all the good intentions it is virtually impossible the maintain a full length coat and a happy dog at the same time!! Once hair is matted it must be clipped off, it cannot be brushed out. Of course it is ideal that you dog is groomed befor they get matted. This way the dog is cleaner, there is more choice about their hairstyle and the actual grooming is quicker and more pleasant.

Long haired dogs like Border Collies and Samoyeds need to be brushed daily, however they usually do not require clipping. Many others are clipped off all over or with some hair left on their head and tail (so they don’t look too different!). It is important to cut hair around eyes and bottoms for good health and hygiene. Also checking between pads and toes for knots, burrs and grass seeds is very important and these things can be very uncomfortable and become infected. For breeds like Cocker Spaniels it is great to clip the inner ears to reduce, weight, heat and bacteria. Be careful in the sensitive areas if you are trying it yourself.

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Kittens

The kittens are here! Hard to come by in the winter months, plentiful in spring and summer, these cute baby felines are popping up everywhere. The following are some helpful tips on caring for a new kitten (or two!).

Kittens are best taken to a new home after they are eight to ten weeks old. This ensures that they are properly weaned and have had enough time learning from mum and the litter mates. Kittens should be alert, active and robust, with bright eyes and coats. They should have had human socialisation. Handling kittens helps get them used to living with people, however it should always be quiet and careful while they are very young. This way all human contact is a positive experience that they enjoy. Introduce them to new pets slowly and always supervise. Let them adjust at their own pace and don’t force a kitten on an existing pet. They will work it out in their own way.

The first of three vaccinations should be between six and eight weeks old. This is to prevent diseases like ‘cat flu’. After this initial treatment your cat should have an annual booster shot. Worming should also begin at six weeks of age to prevent a variety of different worm infestations. Your vet should advise you of vaccination programs, worming and flea control.

Before your kitten is brought home it is a good idea to go around your house looking for any potential hazards such as cords, sharp or small objects, poisons or heat. Kittens are naturally very curious and will get into anything interesting. Remember they can also climb! To preserve your belongings, provide scratching posts, cat friendly toys and plenty of stimulation. Punishment is mostly ineffective and confusing for a young kitten. Instead, encourage good behaviour A favourite toy will divert away from curtain swinging and couch commando. Fresh, dried or spray-on catnip and catgrass have a cat attracting scent and is helpful to encourage a cat into certain areas. Cats love to play, climb and investigate, they need this activity to keep their minds and bodies healthy, it is also great entertainment for us humans.

Kitty litter trays come in all shapes and sizes to suit your home. Place two or more trays throughout the house during the first few weeks to minimise accidents. A quiet, safe area is a must. Show your cat the trays, after meal and nap times is ideal. They seem to know what to do. Expect some mistakes and have a specific animal odour cleaning product on hand. Always keep litter trays clean and try to go for and environmentally friendly brand. After a while you can remove some of the trays - it is easier to clean a used tray rather than a soiled floor. 

Meals times should be small and regular to avoid pigging out and getting upset tummies. Premium brand kitten food is the best. There are canned and dried varieties. Both are fine, although for smaller kittens you can soften dry biscuits with warm water. They should produce small, firm faeces. Be aware that kittens lose lots of fluids through diarrhoea and can become dehydrated very quickly. Diarrhoea and vomiting may need veterinary treatment. Don’t give kittens milk and dairy products as they can cause tummy upsets. "Pets" milk is ok. Always provide plenty of fresh water.

Kittens are boisterous fun and relaxing to watch and play with. If you have room for two it’s double the fun. You can purchase kittens through breeders, pet shops or from the RSPCA and animal shelters. With a few basic rules they are easy to keep. Welcome! You crazy little cats!

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Food

With tins opening, boxes shaking and bones crunching across the nation it’s no wonder that food rates highly on any pet's agenda. But how do we know what is best? Dogs and cats are naturally carnivorous predators, which means they hunt meat in the wild. They need bones to keep their teeth in good shape plus a variety of food to maintain a nutritionally balanced diet. Due to domestication we are responsible for providing our pets with food that replicates the essential vitamins and minerals that they find in the wild.

There are three main diets to feed our pets. They are standard commercial / supermarket food, table scraps and home cooked food, and premium prepared foods. Supermarket foods are often marketed to appeal to us humans and use our emotional attachment to food as a sales tool. Animals eat to stop being hungry whereas humans use food to celebrate, as a treat, for social gatherings and as a status indicator. We also have a lot of psychological values placed on food and its role. Therefore products such as ‘chicken dinner’, ‘beef casserole’ and ‘seafood basket’ sound like something nice and tasty like we would eat for ourselves. Often these foods contain little real meat and are full of colourings, flavourings, additives, preservatives and fillers. Fat and salt are commonly used as flavour enhancers. Remember that just because they like it doesn’t necessarily mean that it is healthy. (Like chocolate!)

Standard commercial products are also less digestible, meaning that not as much nutrient is absorbed and you actually have to feed more. A lot more is also produced at the other end! Feeding table scraps is ok as long as it is occasionally and not on top of other foods. Obesity is a major problem in domestic animals and often feeding these tidbits is the culprit. It also encourages begging and scavenging which means you are not in control of feeding time. Beware of human foods that are high in fat, sugar and salt, these are not necessary for your pet. Find a good quality brand of pet treats and use sparingly as a reward. There are no lollies in the wild!

Premium brand pet foods are the best diet, specially formulated to meet your pet's needs at different life stages and backed up with trials and guarantees. There is no ‘one size fits all’. Older animals need different nutrition to younger: active to sedentary, Mastiff to Chihuahua.

Premium brand food can now be used in conjunction with drug therapy when coping with illnesses. There are varieties for urinary tract health, dental care, skin problems and allergies, just to name a few. Higher quality nutrition also means that your pet is healthier and therefore acts as an illness preventative. Dry and canned foods are available. Contrary to popular belief it is o.k. to feed your pet the same food all the time. Indeed this is helpful to determine quantity, quality and pinpoint other possible causes for illnesses. A healthy coat and skin, less waste and more energy are the immediate benefits of a premium diet.

What about the cost? When looking at cost it is important to work cost per feed rather than per bag or can. Also if your pet is overweight it is costing you money to overfeed them! Dry foods work out to be the most economical. Supermarket foods are the cheapest per bag, however more needs to be feed to make your pet feel full as they are less absorbable. Advice on costing is available through premium stockists. Feeding is also something you should discuss during veterinary check ups to work out the best diet for each animal’s needs. That’s all we have time for today... my cat’s at the bowl!

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Summer Dogs

Summer is nearly here!! As you get out the deck chair and cocktails don’t forget your pets when the temperature rises. Whilst animals are sensible and spend most of their days lounging in the shade, (unlike us people who rush around at work or school) they still need some special consideration.

An adventure to the beach or river is wonderful fun and great exercise. Check each area for the doggy friendly parts. Be cautious, however, not to over exert your dog on hot days. Its probably best to wait until a cooler time of the day for walking and playing. When out and about take a bottle of water or stop for drinks on the way. A folding, waterproof nylon bowl is easy to carry. It is very important to provide clean water at all times. A large, heavy ceramic bowl is best as it keeps the water cooler and is harder to tip over. If your pet is left unattended, more than one bowl is a good idea. Why not make some doggy icy poles or frozen food, like gravy? ‘Kong’ toys can be stuffed and frozen for a refreshing treat that gets them thinking. A shaded area is also essential, ensure that it is shaded all day as the sun moves. A trip to the groomers for all long haired dogs and some cats is essential. A thorough comb out or clip is needed more regularly during the summer months, about every 6 to 8 weeks. Shorter haired breeds such as Labradors and Rottweilers moult too! They will also benefit from a hydrobath and brushing. There are many brushes and grooming gloves available for dogs and cats so you and your house don’t become hairy havens during moulting season. If your dog or cat shows signs of heat exhaustion such as panting, lethargy, distress or even fainting, get them to a cool bath or under the hose as soon as you can and keep them there until they have calmed and recovered. Never hesitate to ask for veterinary advice. Be especially vigilant with sick, elderly, young and overweight animals as they are more prone to heat related trauma. Remember never to leave any animals alone in a hot car. They can over heat and die very quickly.

Don’t forget your bird this summer. Make sure they are shaded during the day and not in the path of hot winds. They need a bird bath and several water bowls. A spray mist bottle sprayed from a distance is a cool treat for birds when they are looking a little parched. These are also handy for the dog and yourself! (maybe not the cat) As for our bunnies, rats, mice, guinea pigs and ferrets again water and shade are at the top of the list. Straw and bedding materials will need to be replaced more regularly to stop their getting smelly and mouldy. When rodents are in a glass or plastic tank check that they have ventilation and let the out when possible for some fresh air. Lastly, keep fish tanks out of direct sunlight as it promotes the growth of algae and nasty bacteria.

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Surgery

At some stage in your pet's life, first time usually for desexing, you may need to consider their undergoing some sort of surgical procedure. Lumps, bumps, teeth, claws, tails, paws and much more can be surgical subjects. Surgery can be the quickest and most effective way of resolving or preventing a problem. It sounds very dramatic and although it is a serious medical procedure a bit of knowledge can take away the worry.

Your pet is usually less worried than you! Animals do not need to fret about their jobs, bills, children or appearance, all they do is rest until they are better. For a surgical procedure to occur you will have been advised by your Veterinarian after consultation, what the problem is and how it can be treated. Never be afraid to ask questions, request diagrams or written information. Also get a realistic estimate of costs, follow ups, further medication etc. Come back if needed, for your first reaction can sometimes be anxiety and it is hard to take it all in. Don’t panic!

For non-emergency procedures your pet will be dropped off in the morning and usually can go home that evening. Fast the patient on the  night before to prevent any vomiting during or after the anaesthetic. The Nurse will confirm what is to be done, and the Veterinarian will check that the patient is ok for the surgery. Please leave with us a phone number so that we can reach you in case we need  to make final phone call to make everything clear. Everyone involved is briefed about what will happen and the area and any tools are prepared.

The patient is first given a ‘pre-med’ or a pre-anaesthetic sedative. This makes them drowsy and make the transition in and out of consciousness smoother and less confusing. It also helps keep the animal still when finding and injecting into veins. If necessary, pain relief injections are given at this stage. After this takes effect, anaesthetic is injected into the vein, usually on the foreleg. Sometimes it is necessary to shave off some hair to do this. The length of the anaesthetic depends on the surgery.

The surgeon performs the operation in a sterile environment with sterile instruments. Tools are ‘autoclaved’ or placed in a high temperature steaming machine to kill any germs. Sterile gloves, drapes and swabs are also used. Where possible the affected area is clipped of hair and rinsed in a sterile solution. Antibiotic injections are commonly given to protect against any bacterial risk. This cleanliness is as important as the surgery itself.

After the operation is finished, the wound will most likely be sutured = stitched together. This may be with dissolving or persistent thread. Non-dissolving stitches are removed at the Clinic up to two weeks later. This is also a good time to check healing, and discuss any further care. After stitching and cleaning the wound your pet is placed in a warm, quiet room with a blanket to wake up. They are monitored by staff to ensure they are o.k. When you come to collect them they will be drowsy and need a peaceful bed ready at home.

Expect a quiet night and do not be alarmed if the patient is not very hungry. Limit meals to about half what is normal. If drowsiness persists or any other unexpected behaviour occurs do not hesitate in seeking veterinary advice. If your pet is licking or disturbing stitches, a ‘bucket’ or Elizabethan collar (we sell these) may need to be fitted to prevent infection or suture removal and rupture. Rest is important, an enclosed area may be necessary, especially if a limb or something needs to be immobilised.

No-one wants their animals to need surgery but if you and the family are informed and aware many of the concerns can be eased. Get plenty of information from your Veterinarian about the condition and procedure involved. Be prepared for before and after surgery. Arm yourself will TLC and don’t panic!

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